The End of the Week Friday, Mar 16 2012

Los Islenos and Baratarians in Slidell LA, March 2012

You can take all of the cliches about returning home after spending a week away and boil ‘em up in a pot and pretty much get the point of this post. Between Thursday night and Saturday morning, the students here are already preparing for the separation; the trip, the thing they’ve looked forward to since pre-registration is about to be over. No matter how much we talk about their experience in an effort to place this great, yet peculiar City in context; it won’t be enough. And then they’ll get to drive the 26-28 hours back to Durham NH. I think they’ve really begun to understand this place, warts and all. And they understand the small contribution that they’ve made to the lives of the people in this region. They’ve certainly gotten the food. They’ve adapted to the slow pace. And they understand that this place sweats music. And they have already begun ignoring the sunburns, and blisters, and the aching muscles that they never realized that they had.

UNH Students on the Canal Street/Algiers Ferry, March 2012

Thursday night, everyone got up from dinner and a surprise birthday cake from home, and ventured into the City. One group had already gone in to eat at the Praline Connection on Frenchmen. I met the other two groups for a round-trip on the ferry to Algiers Point. I didn’t even get off the boat. The night was balmy, almost summer-like. We’ve enjoyed it immensely, but I’ve heard several locals worry aloud: “if it’s this hot in march, what is it going to be like in July?”

Young Fellaz Brass Band, Frenchmen Street, March 2012

After the ferry ride, the groups went their separate ways, although most ended up listening to some sort of music. I caught the up-and-coming Young Fellaz Brass Band for a short, yet-spirited set at the corner of Chartres and Frenchmen, before ducking into one of the nearby clubs for a set of cafe jazz. I had early morning plans to visit with the group working across the Parish, so I returned before most of the students.

Friday brought the last day of work and the last night in the City. I drove through the morning fog to meet up with the Wild Magnolias, who are putting the finishing touches on a couple of homes outside of Abita Springs. Both are scheduled to close before the end of the month. In the process, they have picked up such skills as pouring cement, building steps, and playing with local canines. They have plans to work through so that they can go to Uptown New Orleans for a Parkway Bakery po’boy. I would be jealous, except for the fact that I have found a couple of very, respectable po’boy shops right here in Slidell (As of this writing: Jocko’s and Kenney’s Seafood. I’m sure if I return in the future, I’ll discover others.).

Wild Magnolias, outside of Abita Springs LA, March 2012

The Los Islenos and Baratarians continue to toil away on Maple and Tupelo Streets,  painting and laying flooring. And they so without the benefit of the shade enjoyed by their cross-Parish classmates.The volunteers next week will be left with a nice platform upon which to erect walls. Yup, students from UNH-ABC did that. Nevertheless, you could feel the energy level drop like the air released from a balloon. And the fact that it was humid and above 80 degrees before 11 a.m. didn’t help. They too, were heading out for po’boys, but I warned them to leave room for dinner (fried catfish, okra jambalaya, salad, etc. And I’m throwing in 10 pounds of boiled crawfish, so that everyone will have a chance to try them).

I don’t think there’s a soul who’ll stay put or retire early tonight. Most plan to meet up at the Blue Nile to see Kermit Ruffins and his band, the Barbecue Swingers (Kermit is know almost as much for his cooking as his effervescent music). I might try to catch Dr. Michael White, who is playing over in the courtyard of the Historic Music Collection on Royal Street a little before. From the Blue Nile, I suspect they’ll fan out to have cafe au lait, listen to more music, or just enjoy walking the streets on a warm night. And again, even though I don’t have a long drive ahead of me, I think there’s a good chance that I’ll be among the first back in Slidell.

Or, as the old crank in “It’s a Wonderful Life” said: “Youth is wasted on the wrong people!”

"Scruffy," Abita Springs LA, March 2012

"Root Beer," Slidell LA, March 2012

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Random Facts About New Orleans Sunday, Mar 4 2012

These facts have been supplied to help my students get a snapshot of New Orleans prior to their spring break, service-learning trip. Some facts may be subject to bias (mine). Those generally appear towards the end of the list. No harm or misinformation is intended by these pronouncements.

St. Louis Cathedral, March 2010.

Distance from Durham NH to New Orleans LA: 1,586 miles

Road hours from Durham NH to New Orleans LA: one day; two hours

Average high temperature on March 10^th in Durham NH: 37 degrees

Average high temperature on March 10^th in New Orleans LA: 71 degrees

Population of New Orleans LA (2010): 343,829

Population of Durham NH (2010): 14,638

New Orleans founded: 1718 by French explorers and speculators

Durham founded: 1732 by English settlers

Portion of New Orleans below sea level: 49%

Top New Orleans employer: Ochsner Health System, 10,000

Second line parade, March 2010

New Orleans racial composition: African-American 60.2%; white, 33%; Hispanic, 5.3%; Asian 2.9

% of New Orleans population who are Roman Catholic: 35.9%

Rank of New Orleans in murder rate (US): 1^st

Rank of New Orleans in bicycle and foot traffic (US): 8^th

Best cross-dressing bounce artist: Big Freedia

Best radio station: WWOZ (90.7 FM)

Best seafood po’boy: Domilise’s

Best music club: Spotted Cat on Frenchmen Street

Best place for traditional music: Preservation Hall

Me and Kermit Ruffins, Rock and Bowl, March 2011.

Oldest regularly performing jazz artist: Lionel Ferbos (100 years old) at the Palm Court

Coolest senior citizen in America: “Uncle” Lionel Batiste (81 years old) bass drummer for the Treme Brass Band and Frenchmen Street denizen

Best New Orleans brass band: Rebirth Brass Band (OK Stu, I’ve come around)

Mr. New Orleans: Kermit Ruffins

Best city in America: Do we really have to ask?

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Things to Do in New Orleans — Part 2 Saturday, Mar 3 2012

Preservation Hall Stars at Preservation Hall, March 2010.

Tuesday, March 13th will be our first day on the job. Expect to be on the road and ready to report for work before 7:00am. Breakfast and lunch makings will be provided at the Peace Mission Center. Remember: close toed shoes are required. At the end of the day, we’ll return to the Center to clean-up and have dinner. For that evening, I would suggest a trip to Preservation Hall, where Shannon Powell and the Preservation All Stars will be playing. It’ll require $10.00 and a substantial wait in line. And if that is not your cup of tea, Frenchmen Street is a musical smorgasbord where you can wander from door to door to hear what’s playing. And I suspect a few will end up at Cafe du Monde for cafe au lait and beignets.

Dr. Michael White

After work on Wednesday, we’ll be heading out to Xavier University to hear Dr. Michael White and his quartet, drawn from his Original Liberty Jazz Band. White holds the Keller Endowed Chair in the Humanities of New Orleans Music and Culture, but he is best known for his clarinet and musical compositions in the traditional style. This will be the fifth year we’ve had the pleasure of working with him to learn more about the origins of New Orleans jazz. (Thanks to the New Hampshire Library of Traditional Jazz for sponsoring this event.)

Thursday offers diverse choices. The Preservation Hall Jazz Band featuring Mark Braud on trumpet is downtown, while Geno Delafose and French Rockin’ Boogie are Uptown at Rock and Bowl off of Carrollton Avenue. A trip to Rock and Bowl is a must and zydeco is a great way to get your feet moving.

Friday will be our last day on the job and our last night in Louisiana. And it offers some great choices for entertainment.If you’d like to hear multiple trombones playing covers of Led Zeppelin and Allman Brothers tunes, then Bonerama at the Rock and Bowl is a must. They are unique, to say the least. If you’d rather stay downtown, I’d suggest Kermit Ruffins and the Barbecue Swingers. Kermit, one of the founders of the Rebirth Brass Band, is a regular on the HBO series Treme; he is a party waiting to happen. Kermit will be at the Blue Nile on Frenchmen. And of course there are the usual attractions in and around the French Quarter.

Sylvester Francis at the Backstreet Cultural Museum, June 2011.

On Saturday morning we’ll return to New Orleans to visit the Backstreet Cultural Museum. Curator Sylvester Francis has accumulated an incredible collection of Mardi Gras Indian suits and second line memorabilia. He is a walking encyclopedia of those traditions. (Thanks to the UNH Discovery Program for sponsoring this visit.) It will also give you a chance to visit Treme, the oldest African-American neighborhood in the United States. For your remaining hours in New Orleans, I’d suggest a visit to the French Market near the river and a walk down Royal Street. The former is a great place to by gifts and souvenirs. And on Royal Street, late Saturday morning brings street performers and musicians. And be sure to grab a po’ boy or muffalletta before you hit the interstate

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Mardi Gras Miscellany Wednesday, Feb 15 2012

OK, I’ll be arriving in New Orleans three weeks, one day and 21 hours from now, not that anyone is counting. In the meantime, there is a lot going on in the Crescent City. A few days after the Grammy Awards, a few days before Mardi Gras; well, things are popping and in a blaze of randomness, I’ll try to capture it, in keeping with the season, without adding any unnecessary structure.

• Rebirth Brass Band returns from the Grammy Awards — After nearly thirty years of producing great music, Rebirth scored their first Grammy for best regional roots album. Kermit Ruffins, one of the band’s founders, the Baby Boyz Brass Band, and other friends and musicians, greeted the band as they arrived at the Louis Armstrong International Airport. Here’s the video.
  

  Rebirth Brass Band receiving the Grammy Award.

• King Cake Crown awarded — for the last few weeks, Judy Walker, food editor for the Times-Picayune has led a team of king cake tasters throughout the New Orleans region to find the finest Carnival-season confection. The judges visited six bakeries that were picked from over 20,000 reader votes. nola.com provided videos from visits to the six bakeries, including: Gambino’s; Haydel’s; Manny Randazzo’s; Nonna Randazzo’s; Randazzo’s Camellia City; and Sucre. All bakeries put forward three King Cakes except for Sucre, which makes only one. The six top cakes were pitted against one another and the top three were separated by but 1.5 points. The winner, announced today was Manny Randazzo’s pecan praline king cake. A celebration ensued at the bakery.
• New Galactic album — Galactic, the great New Orleans funk/rock band has a new album, Carnivale Electricos, coming out on Mardi Gras Day. Since the whole concept is a reworking of classic Mardi Gras tunes, it seems cruel to make us wait until the season is over. I have heard snippets, but not the whole album. Thankfully, Conan O’Brien and Team Coco are providing a full album stream for the album. For a listen, go here.
• 

  New Orleans City Councilwoman Dorothy Mae Taylor, 1992

  An Integrated Mardi Gras — And to all of this frivolity, let’s add a bit of history. Twenty years ago, City Councilor Dorothy Mae Taylor had the audacity to force old-time Mardi Krewes to abandon the racism and sexism that they represented. And while jail time was dropped as part of the ordinance, the new regulations  forced old-time krewes Comus and Momus off the streets. Rex and Proteus agreed to the new regulations and continue to parade. According to columnist James Gill, Taylor should receive credit for making Mardi Gras krewes more color-blind and the season as a whole, an all embracing celebration. It is good not to forget such achievements.

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Last Day on the Job Sunday, Mar 20 2011

I headed out to my Marrero office (McDonald’s) to check my e-mail and blog while 36 students awakened, got ready, and prepared lunches. All of this likely takes place in the span of 15 minutes.  It’s like making sausage – you enjoy the finished product, but it’s only possible because you don’t witness the process.

As I drove across the bridge, it was foggy and humid. Downtown New Orleans looked like San Francisco in June. I knew it was going to be a hot and sticky one. But we couldn’t complain. The weather has been spectacular this week. And humidity and New Orleans go together like beans and rice.

Last day on Hickory Street, March 2011.

We did hit a speed bump as our brushes ended up at another site, so Molly and I went back to St. Raymond’s for some others. When we got back, the painting at both homes was in full swing. After waiting all week, I got to break into the trim paint.  It was great for the students to see the result, as the trim really enhances the color of the siding. And even though we were only able to complete the first coat, they had a chance to get an idea of what the finished home would look like. And the wooden, often hand-carved embellishments on many of these old homes make the job even more fun.

Painting trim, March 2011.

As has become customary, we planned to work through lunch and break off an hour or so early, so that we could go for sandwiches and/or snowballs to celebrate a good week’s work. And by the time we finished at 2:00pm, students and owners alike could appreciate our accomplishments. The couple who owned our home came out to admire our work. The wife, who I assume is the captain of this ship, was thrilled at how the colors looked. Her husband took one look at the yellow and fern green and quietly opined: “this is going to take some getting used to.”

We designated a couple of groups to head over to St. Ray’s to wash brushes, but prior to that we went over to the Parkway Bakery and Tavern for some of the best po-boys in New Orleans. Most of us walked a block to Bayou St. John where we enjoyed them and a Barq’s root beer – again, I have to use the beans and rice analogy. We savored everything from hotdog and a lovely Caprese po-boy to the the more traditional roast beef and fried seafood varieties.

Po-boys on Bayou St. John, March 2011.

After our late lunch we went our separate ways. Some to finish cleaning brushes, others to find a much ballyhooed thrift shop, and others to a snowball stand. I took the opportunity to head back to Marrero for the first shower of the evening.

Afterwards, I went over to Frenchmen Street to catch the first set from the Washboard Chaz Trio, a traditional favorite of mine. I met a young couple from Boston who were down to sample some of the music and sites that they had enjoyed on the HBO series “Treme.” They were headed out to the Rock and Bowl to see Kermit Ruffins, where I was to meet the three groups from my class. So the three of us headed Uptown for an evening of good, decidedly New Orleans entertainment. I had not made to the new Rock and Bowl before (I was a big fan of the original) and didn’t know what to expect, but I was not disappointed.

Nikki and Sam with Kermit, March 2011.

The space was much bigger than before, but without losing any of the atmosphere. The food was much improved. And Kermit was, well Kermit. The students ate and danced and soaked up the sounds of their last night in New Orleans. The girls were invited to dance on stage, get their pictures taken with Kermit. All in all, I think everyone had a fun and memorable time. A couple of groups left there to go back into the City. Although I didn’t have a 25+ hour drive back to New Hampshire facing me, I’m old and  I went back to Madonna Manor to get at least a few hours of sleep. And after a week of working in the sun, I wasn’t aware when the others wandered in from their last night out. But…I know it was late.

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Suggested Live Music: New Orleans Wednesday, Mar 9 2011

Kermit Ruffins, March 2008.

There’s a ton of music in New Orleans while we are there. I have picked a variety of acts, ranging from traditional jazz and New Orleans brass bands to zydeco. The following acts will give you a good taste of what New Orleans brings musically. And none of these venues are 21+, a major consideration for college students. You can decide as a group where you want to go. And you can check with me or your group leaders when seeking advice.

Sunday, March 13th, Tipitina’s: Cajun Fais Do Do Featuring Bruce Daigrepont, 5:30pm, $7
Howlin Wolf : Brass Band Sundays with Hot 8 Brass Band, 9:00pm, $8

Monday, March 14th, Preservation Hall: St. Peter Street Playboys Featuring: William Smith, 8:00pm, $12

Mitchell Player (bass) Michael White (clarinet), Detroit Brooks (banjo), and Gregg Stafford (trumpet and vocals), March 2009.

Tuesday, March 15th, Xavier University: Dr. Michael White Quartet, 8:00pm, mandatory & free

Wednesday, March 16th, Preservation Hall: The Preservation Hall Jazz Band with Special Guest: Shamarr Allen, 8:00pm, $12

Thursday, March 17th, Rock and Bowl: Zydeco Night, Leon Chavis, 8:30pm, $10
Preservation Hall: Tornado Brass Band, Featuring: Darryl Adams, 8:00pm, $12

Friday, March 18th, Rock and Bowl: Kermit Ruffins & the BBQ Swingers, 9:30pm, $10
Preservation Hall: The Preservation Hall Jazz Masters, Featuring: Leroy Jones, 8:00pm, $12

And there are plenty of other options but, in general, check with me or the group leaders when making plans.

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Musical Musings Thursday, Feb 17 2011

New Orleans is arguably the best American city for live music. I know, cities like Austin and Memphis and Chicago, among others, can make a case, but my money and my heart are with the Crescent City.

And it’s that time of year. I’m heading down with my class in a little over three weeks, so every few days I’m sneaking a peak at the music listings. On one hand, I’m looking for musicians that I know and like; but then again, I’m looking for venues that are friendly for those under 21. And then, you have to factor in those intrinsic values such as: place (the stark reverence of Preservation Hall); showmanship (two words: Kermit Ruffins); or kinetic inspiration (OK, let’s get it out there: zydeco).

At this point, the musical possibilities seem to be coming together pretty well. On March 12^th, the day we get to town, Preservation Hall is featuring trombonist Lucien Barbarin in a tribute to musical and familial ancestors, drummer Paul Barbarin and banjo/guitar player Danny Barker. On Sunday night, the Hot 8 Brass Band is at Howlin’ Wolf and Cajun Fais Do Do featuring Bruce Daigrepont is at Tipitina’s. Either way, people are going to be moving uncontrollably.

"Kid Chocolate" Brown, March 2010.

During the week, Shannon Powell and Preservation Hall-Stars are at – oh, you guessed it. Powell, can be something of a showboat, but he often surrounds himself with musicians like trumpeter “Kid Chocolate” Brown and pianist Steve Pistorious. And the venerable Rock and Bowl offers great entertainment value towards the end of the week. Clearly, nothing says St. Patrick’s Day like zydeco night. And on Friday and Saturday, Kermit Ruffins and the Barbecue Swingers take their feel-good sound uptown to Carrollton Avenue.

We’ve got papers, and readings, and a mid-term (them to complete; me to grade) before we head south, but musically, we’ve clearly got something to look forward to.

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One New Orleans Music Landmark Saved; Another Lost Friday, Jan 7 2011

Mother-in-Law Lounge, March 2010.

This week brought mixed news on the preservation of New Orleans’ music traditions. On the upside, the late Ernie K-Doe’s Mother-in-Law Lounge will reportedly be reopened by Mardi Gras. And sadly, urban renewal efforts claimed the boyhood home of traditional jazz pioneer Sidney Bechet.

On the positive side, the Times-Picayune yesterday reported that trumpet player Kermit Ruffins has agreed to lease the Mother-in-Law Lounge, the colorful, but ramshackle bar on Claiborne Avenue. Named for K-Doe’s big hit, “Mother-in-Law,” the bar passed to his widow Antoinette after he died in 2001. She ran it as a bar and museum honoring her eccentric husband until her death, on Mardi Gras morning 2009. Her daughter tried to keep it open, but it finally closed its doors in 2010, when most of Ernie K-Doe’s memorabilia was auctioned off to cover expenses.

Ruffins, one of the co-founders of Rebirth Brass Band and part-time star (playing himself) of the HBO series, “Treme,” jumped at the chance to lease the musical landmark. Ruffins has not decided what to call his new bar, but he plans for it to feature as much music as possible. And while the name will probably change,  Ruffins will do nothing to alter Daniel Fusilier’s colorful murals of Ernie K-Doe and other subjects which are featured the two-story structure’s exterior.

Bechet House, April 2010.

On a more somber note, another music landmark recently fell victim to a political promise. When elected in February 2010, Mayor Mitch Landrieau promised to speed the clearing of abandoned houses throughout the city. Most remained unoccupied in the wake of flooding from Hurricane Katrina. In many cases, these suffered structures suffered from catastrophic flood and termite damage. And in many instances, owners did not appear at hearings to stop demolition.

Unfortunately, the same fate befell the boyhood home of Sidney Bechet, the great New Orleans clarinet and soprano saxophone master. Between 1907 and 1914, Bechet and his family lived in the shotgun house on Marais Street in New Orleans’ Seventh Ward. Bechet, went on to renown throughout the United States and Europe. Even so, his former home fell into disrepair, although it remained occupied up until Hurricane Katrina.

City officials pointed out that the owner never came forward to contest the demolition and that the roof had caved in. Nevertheless, historians and preservationists bemoan the loss of yet another historical landmark.

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Treme Thursday, Jan 7 2010

Filmmakers long have found New Orleans to be a ripe and inviting place for movie settings. The same cannot be said for television. To most Americans, the city is a “mystery wrapped in an enigma.” It provides a backdrop that is too distant, too weird for “main street” viewers. Then there is the problem of “getting it right.”

A great example of the former was “Frank’s Place,” a “dramady” that aired on CBS during the 1987-89 seasons. Critics and folks from New Orleans loved it for its textured verisimilitude, but it failed to draw rating numbers high enough to sustain it. A good example of the second is “K-Ville,” Fox’s post-Katrina cop show. It displayed some understanding of the setting, but appeared challenged by local dialects and even geography. And its audience and lead actors quietly disappeared.

The problem with putting New Orleans’ foibles and eccentricities on the small screen may be solved in April, when HBO is scheduled to premier David Simon’s new drama, “Treme.” Named for the African-American neighborhood to the north of the French Quarter, it will focus on the culture of New Orleans, with Katrina increasingly in the rear view mirror. And while a show about the food and the idiosyncratic music scene of a small, distant American city might be a stretch, I think it could work.

First of all, producer David Simon, the former police beat reporter from Baltimore, created shows like “Homicide” and “The Wire,” both gritty, raw, and hyperealistic. Plus it is on HBO, where such a series can find a niche audience. He has hired a great stable of actors, including Steve Zahn, New Orleans native Wendell Pierce, Melissa Leo (who received an Oscar nomination for her work in last year’s “Frozen River”), and John Goodman, who just signed on this week. He’s also using writers and consultants from New Orleans itself, which should produce a credible product. In fact, Simon hired local trumpet player Kermit Ruffins as a consultant and ended up making him a character in the show…playing himself. And I think Kermit promises to be a star beyond the clubs of the Crescent City…

We’ll see how this plays out. Is New Orleans just too different for the television screen or will “Treme” rise to the level of the growing buzz. Regardless, it’ll be an interesting ride.

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