The Weekend: Rain, Music, Parades…More Rain Tuesday, Mar 17 2009

Saturday morning broke warm and humid. I went out for breakfast and took a walk deep into the French Quarter. The first of many showers broke and I was drenched.

I went to Domilise’s for a “small” oyster po-boy. Folks were lined up in the rain, but that did not deter them from dressed deliciousness. And no, it did not disappoint.

Trevor and Conor’s group had arrived in the middle of the night and by late morning, they were ready to make plans for the day. I met up with them near the corner of Louisiana and St. Charles and within a few minutes the Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Day began rolling by. The rain dampened the crowd but not the spirits. We came away with some good laughs, more beads than anyone could possibly wear, and a dozen cabbages to boot. The students got into a minor fender bender leaving the parade: They waited for over an hour for the police to show up and even then, they didn’t seem too attuned to filing the necessary report. At least they got to see the NOPD for, well, what it’s known for.

I returned back to our place in Marrero and met Stu and Meaghan’s group and about an hour later, Brittany and Brad’s groups. Folks picked out bedrooms, unpacked, and began preparations for the evening. We ventured down to the French Quarter for the Italian-American Parade, which was a sodden mess, both in terms of the rain and the amount of alcohol that participants had (and were consuming). Students ventured out for dinner and I headed over to the Spotted Cat. We met up later at Cafe du Monde for cafe au lait and beignets. Later, van by van of the New Hampshire contingent headed back across the river.

Sunday broke equally dreary. It looked as though the clouds would break for a while, but due to the uncertain forecast, the Mardi  Gras Indians cancelled their parade. Instead of going to yet another St. Patrick’s Day parade, the students decided to visit the Lower Ninth Ward and Chalmette Battlefield. The weather held off as students walked the slightly less desolate neighborhood. They witnessed the emptiness, saw the new sustainable houses built by Brad Pitt’s foundation, and most important, they got to talk to residents, who in spite of losing their homes and in several cases family members, are able to maintain at least a facade of humor and hope. It was a great lesson for the students.

We met at the Chalmette Battlefield in time for yet another downpour. We arrived in New Orleans just before more rain. We did head back in after dinner and a change of dry clothes. And remarkably, the rain off as the students sampled the musical buffet that is Frenchment Street. Hanging at the doorways of bars they could not enter, while heading in and out of the ones they could.

Some got back later than others, but all were focused on beginning our week of work in the city. And with any luck, we would begin the week without the incessant rain.

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A Long Day Saturday, Mar 14 2009

I left the house at 4:15am to catch my flight to New Orleans, through Chicago. My sons were generous enough to get up and take me to the airport, but then they wanted the car for the week. I slipped them a $20 to go to IHOP, as well.

I had planned to grade papers, but I slept and read instead. Mostly slept. I landed in New Orleans, picked up my rental car and immediately went over to Marrero to check out our accommodations. We’ll be staying in Madonna Manor off of Barataria Boulevard, a former home for troubled youth (right). It’s not the Hilton, but it’s quiet, relatively spacious — I think it will work just fine.

I came into the city, checked in and walked a bit. Spring is in it’s full-throated glory. I was able to get a discount ticket for Delbert McClinton at the House of Blues and I then took a stroll up Frenchmen and back down Elysian Fields over in the Marigny. I stopped in at the Spotted Cat  and caught the Panorama Jazz Band (below, top). How have I missed these guys? Their New Orleans funkiness, blend of Caribbean, Eastern European, and traditional themes is infectious, as is their energy. I had to leave, however, to head over to the HOB.

New Orleans’ own Anders Osborne. Great blues guitarist. The only problem with the set is that it was too short. After a short break, Delbert and his band (right bottom) took the stage and it was full tilt for two hours. He played a nice blend of old, recent, and yet to be released tunes. He also played the audience, especailly the women, like a fiddle. He only broke for a few minutes to let a couple of his extraordinary sidemen show their wares.

Afterwards, I headed back over to the Spotted to Cat to catch a set by the New Orleans Jazz Vipers (left). I normally wouldn’t have been up to it, but they are scheduled to be away next Friday and I had to get at least one annual fix. The place was packed with noisy, largely disinterested college students and I think that this rubbed off on the guys. They did warm up as time went on and before I left I was treated to a fun and spirited version of “I’ll Fly Away.”

I got back to my room after 1pm and slept the sleep of angels.

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Friday the 13th Friday, Mar 13 2009

 

While this is generally considered a bad luck day, a day to be avoided, it is the day that the New Orleans class has anticipated from when class began during the snowy days of January. Although the snowy days of March may have heightened the excitement of travelling south even more. The vans are in Durham, travel monies have been distributed, and all that waits is for students to be brought together for the 1500-mile trip. And from what I can gather, leaders and students alike are bouncing off the walls.

Last I heard, travel group number 2, led by Trevor and Conor, will be pulling out around 1:00am. I’ll be following them, by air about five hours later. By early afternoon,I would expect the other groups to be on the road. While they travel through the mid-Atlantic, the Appalachians, and the Deep South, I will arrive in New Orleans Friday afternoon to get a tour of our housing in Marrerro, Louisiana and to touch base with our hosts, Operation Helping Hands. I suspect I’ll take a walk along Royal Street and find a nice bench in Jackson Square, among other things. Music will definitely be on the menu. Early arrivals on Saturday may have a chance to attend the Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Day Parade during the afternoon and/or the  Italian American Parade that evening. Regardless, we’ll all be together by Sunday to bask in the relative warmth and to explore the myriad of idiosyncracies that are the city of New Orleans. (Above, Irish Channel St. Patrick’s Day Parade, New Orleans, 2008)

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Live Music in New Orleans Wednesday, Mar 11 2009

I’m looking ahead to live music in New Orleans for the week we are there and the signals are good, no they are really outstanding. I’m getting in on Friday, so I get a day’s head start, so I’ll start there:

Friday, March 13th: one of my favorite blues singers, Delbert McClinton at the House of Blues. He’ll be joined by New Orleans’ own Anders Osborne. Afterwards, I’ll probably head over to the Spotted Cat to see the New Orleans Jazz Vipers. (Right, Rites of Swing at the Spotted Cat, 2008)

Saturday, March 14th: Bonerama at the Mid-City Lanes Rock ‘n’ Bowl and an incredible lineup of the Hot 8 Brass Band, TBC Brass Band, J. Scout, Bossman,  Superior,  B.I.G. Al, and Black N’ Mild at Tipitina’s.

Sunday, March 15th: Rites of Spring at the Spotted Cat.

Monday, March 16th: Charmaine Neville & Friends at Snug Harbor.

Tuesday, March 17th: Rebirth Brass Band at the Maple Leaf.

Wedensday, March 18th: Walter “Wolfman” Washington & the Roadmasters At D.B.A.; the Dirty Dozen Brass Band at the Maple Leaf; Joe Krown at Mid-City Lanes Rock ‘n’ Bowl; and, of course, Dr. Michael White and his Quartet at Xavier University (private performance).

Thursday, March 19th: Tornado Brass Band at Preservation Hall and Kermit Ruffins & the BBQ Swingers at Vaughan’s Lounge.

Friday, March 20th: Flow Tribe  and  Los Poboycitos at Mid-City Lanes Rock ‘n’ Bowl.

These are just a few of the things going on and, admittedly, they reflect my preferences. However, for all music listings over the next two weeks, see: http://www.wwoz.org/new+orleans+community/music+calendar

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Latest News on Events in New Orleans Tuesday, Mar 10 2009

I had to use the snow blower this afternoon to remove about five inches of snow from my driveway. The  melted snow is freezing on side roads as I write. And while I don’t see any more snow in the forecast, I want to talk about events in warmer climes.

NOLA.com confirmed it tonight. The Uptown Mardi Gras Indians, weather permitting, will process this Sunday, March 15th.  It is one of the most unique and colorful spectacles I have ever witnessed and we will be there. It is presented by the New Orleans Mardi Gras Indian Council and festivities will feature performances by The Hot 8 Brass Band (photo left), Big “Al” Carson, Stooges Brass Band, Young Men Olympian (photo left), Lady Buckjumpers, Lady Divas, D.J. Jubilee, The Troop, BW R&B Singing Group, Joe “Cool” Davis, Captain Charles and King Fashion. Oh yeah!

Other events scheduled during the next few days include: Italian-American St. Joseph’s Day parade, French Quarter, Saturday night, March 14th; St. Patrick’s Parade, Metairie, Sunday noon, March 15th; and the Downtown Irish Club Parade, Bywater/French Quarter, Tuesday night, March 17th. 

6:30 p.m.,

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Getting Ready to Head South Monday, Mar 9 2009

OK, another Sunday night and another forecast of snow. This is getting tiresome.

However, my class and I have something to look forward to — we are heading to New Orleans in a few days. This will be my fourth trip to the Gulf since Hurricane Katrina and while there are always surprises, I’ve become accustomed to getting ready for the trip. Here are some of my tips for anyone heading down for Spring Break:

1) New Orleans is on a different clock, particularly for those of us coming from New England. Drivers and service workers go at a pace that is not necessarily measured by a timepiece. Be patient. The more impatient and frustratrated you become, the slower they get. Be willing to recognize a driver letting you into traffic is compensation for hesitance at a traffic light. If a waitress is slow, accept that the fact that she has called you “baby” or “shug” is worth the extra time you have spent waiting for your food.

2) The wonderfully warm weather comes with some drawbacks. Be prepared for more sun, more humidity, and more encounters with life of the creapy, crawly kind. Take sunscreen and a hat to protect you from more direct sunlight. Spring and flowers and pollen come much earlier in New Orleans. Coupled with the humidity and resulting mold, you have a vertiable stew of allergens. Put yourself on your favorite over-the-counter drug a week ahead of time and stay on it for the duration of the trip. Also, don’t be grossed out by cockroaches the size of small mammals. Don’t stand on fire ant mounds and never walk in places where you can’t see your feet. We will likely spend most of our time in the city, but keep these things in mind nevertheless.

3) Be sure to bring what you need for the trip. Although there are more places to shop than there were two years ago, don’t annoy your group by having to shop for items you should have brought on the trip. A good pillow is a godsend on a 30 hour van trip. You’ll need proper bedding for nights that can get chilly. A jacket for walking around on evenings when the tempertaures can drop into the fifties. I’ve found that layers are a good way to deal with both cool nights and mornings, as well as hot, humid days.

4) Necessities to bring: clothing to provide comfort from the 50s into the 80s; proper bedding (I like polar fleece bags and blankets, along with a light-weight pillow); towels and clothes; toiletries; all necessary prescription and non-prescription medications; proper footwear, both to protect your feet during the day and provide walking comfort during the evenings; and reading material, music, cell phones, and cameras/video equipment to both fill quiet periods and help capture the experience during the not-so-quiet periods.

5) And bring an open mind and a good helping of flexibility. This is going to be a learning experience like no other, and the more you are open to the experience, the more you will enjoy and absorb it.

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March First Monday, Mar 2 2009

OK, I’ll admit it, I grew up in the North Carolina, where by the time we hit March we were generally talking spring. The camellias were in bloom, the azaleas were on the way, and the dogwoods were thinking of making their appearance known. Now I’m sitting in Northern New England; Dover, New Hampshire to be exact. They are forecasting a foot of snow tomorrow. I love it here, but spring is far and away my toughest season. It just takes way too long and ends up being way too short. Up here, spring is a week sometine in May. We cross that to jump from winter into summer.

And, that is why I love to go to New Orleans every spring, as I have for the past three years. Besides the music, food, culture, architecture, music, people, food, you see green grass, fading azalea blossoms, green banana leaves, spring colors, and days where seventy degrees is the norm, not some freakish exception. Spring exists, both meterologically and spiritually. In addition to working in a city I love, mingling with people I love, I also get a jump start on the season I love.

To me, in recent years, New Orleans is the essence of spring.

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The Zulus at 100 Friday, Feb 13 2009

While the Zulu Social Aid and Pleasure Club is always an important part of Mardi Gras in New Orleans, this year they are getting special attention. The Zulus are celebrating their centennial this year. Their history is featured in a major a major exhibit at the Louisiana State Museum and both local and national media has picked up on the significance of this year’s celebration.

On Tuesday, the Times-Picayune ran a great story on the Zulu tradition of decorating coconuts to serve as “throws” during the parade and today, the New York Times ran a wonderful story accompanied by a slide show of photographs from the celebration.

Beyond the Zulus, Mardi Gras events are really heating up, but articles, photographs, and media at http://www.nola.com/ will give you a good sense, for better or for worse, of what you are missing.

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New Orleans Happenings Thursday, Feb 5 2009

OK, so it’s in the single digits here this morning, so I have to think of warmer climes. Oops, the strawberries and citrus in Florida are threatened by a freeze and New Orleans is in the 30s.

However, there are a number of interesting stories about New Orleans of late:

Zatarain’s, the New Orleans-area food producer, is petitioning to have Mardi Gras made a national holiday. Read (and sign) here: http://blog.nola.com/cest-la-nola/2009/02/zatarains_spearheading_petitio.html

An observant blogger (not me) discovered that if you search for “New Orleans” in Google, you can come up with a timeline of New Orleans history, with links from specific dates to open source content, a veritable “New Orleans History 2.0″ (to use her words). For the blog and link to the timeline see:  http://blog.nola.com/cest-la-nola/2009/02/history_of_new_orleans_20.html

The NOPD is at it again. An autopsy shows that a man killed by police on New Year’s Day was shot in the back of the body nine times:  http://www.nola.com/news/index.ssf/2009/02/man_shot_by_police_hit_nine_ti.html

And in spite of such news, Mayor Nagin and the city council have reinstituted “Disney-like” sanitation services for the French Quarter.  It’s good to see where their priorities are. Which raises some interesting questions: do tourists vote? Does the rest of the city get dumpsters? See:  http://www.nola.com/news/index.ssf/2009/02/deluxe_quarter_cleanup_resumes.html

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Upcoming Events in New Orleans Friday, Jan 30 2009

I was walking in this morning, cold, the sound of ice crunching as I walked. But, I was heartended by the fact that days are getting longer and…six weeks from today, exactly, we’ll be heading to New Orleans!

I checked the Times-Picayune online to see what’s going on in the Crescent City and found the schedule of events for the many festivals that will be going on when we are there. The biggest news: rumor has it that the Mardi Gras Indians will process on Sunday, March 15th, rather than a week later, as I had feared. Keep in mind, things with the Indians are always tentative and subject to their schedule, but this is a hopeful sign. Keep your fingers crossed!

There is a complete list of events, but highlights include: Saturday, March 14th, Italian-American St. Joseph’s Day parade, 6:00 p.m., French Quarter; Sunday, March 15, Mardi Gras Indian’s Super Sunday, around 1:00 p.m. (I’m still a little leary of this, though.); and the Tuesday, March 17th, the Downtown Irish Club Parade, 6:30 p.m., Bywater/French Quarter. This starts outside of the French Quarter and participants stop frequently for “refreshments,” so it takes a while for it to hit Bourbon Street. In addition, Thursday, March 19th is St. Joseph’s Day and there will be altars set up throughout the city. For the parade listing, see: http://blog.nola.com/festivals/2008/02/st_patricks_day_events_for_200.html

Finally, as the nation celebrates Abrahm Lincoln’s bicentennial (February 12th, to be exact), New Orleans is celebrating the centennial of the Zulu Social Aid & Pleasure Club. The Louisiana State Museum (housed in the Cabildo and Presbytere) has opened a year-long exhibit: “From Tramps to Kings: 100 Years of Zulu.” The $6.00 admission will get you into other exhibits, as well, including their permanent Carnival exhibit, “Mardi Gras in Louisiana.” For the website on the exhibit, see: http://lsm.crt.state.la.us/zulu/

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